Travel blogs by Travellerspoint

A sketchy sketch skoo

Modifying my bloggin' style

Oy. I feel so behind in my blogging activities. There are so many back-logged stories to tell but I fear that if I attempt such a retrospective, then I shall never get back on track. I'm sorry. It normally takes me at least a couple days to write something I am happy with. I love doing it, but I am struggling with squeezing proper blogging into a 1.5 day weekend, on top of laundry, emails, feeding myself, and having a bit of R and R (Rum and Rowdiness). Plus I don't have a functioning camera anymore after my hot pink apparatus drowned; so my narrative facilities are greatly diminished. I feel kinda dysfunctional without it actually. I have to scavenge pics from other people which takes as much time as writing does!

Thus I think I just have to adapt my style and do sketches of what's going on around here. Here it goes - a week in review sketchy sketch skoos.

My teenage weed-whacking dream was realized strimming the Camp clearing. I have wanted to cut grass this way ever since I saw the machine in use at summer camp back in Canadia. The idea of being able to hold it just suspended above the ground, making it look effortless, appealed to me. What a power trip! And those kevlar pants will never go out of style. Now I think I am ready for a crash course in the chainsaw maneuverings.
weed whacker

weed whacker

Finally spotting the Macchabe skink after months spent rolling around on the forest floor right on top of it. Unfortunately, it dropped its tail at the sight of me. Oy. The abandoned tail wriggled and squirmed for 10 minutes diverting my attention from the escaping lizard. Darn. The tail looked like a little bait fish out of water! I was so confused, and mesmerized by it. So weird. If this tail dropping on demand isn't the best example of an anti-predation adaptation I don't know what is. Evolution rocks.

I met two more people who rub shoulders with Sir David Attenborough (aka The Sexiest Man Alive). They were filming our Echos at Camp for a new BBC nature show called "Miracle Babies" (to be released in early 2011). Can you say 6 degrees of separation?! It seems that I keep getting closer and closer to actually locking eyes with this legend myself. I wonder if Kevin Bacon has ever been in a wildlife documentary with Sir David? Hmm...
bbc

bbc

I am a baker, again. Exquisite orgasmic choux pastry cream puffs were successfully baked, assembled and devoured at the weekend house. I think making only one profiterole per person is ideal: it keeps them always wanting more... Putty in my hands! Hardy har har!!
kat

kat

ewa and rich

ewa and rich

rich

rich

Calling in my first "dead" motorbike rescue on my descent of Chamerelle Road, the most curvaceous passage down a mountain side in the southern hemisphere. Turns out I was just out of gas...and all I had to do was use the fuel reserve...oops. Now I know for next time I lose the ability to accelerate.

Loads more of Echo chicks hatched and banded in the tree tops. Now all the wiener dog names I have been collecting over the years will get applied to my baby parrots. There goes Buffy and Spike!!
ewa up a tree

ewa up a tree

chick banding

chick banding

ewa the bander

ewa the bander

That's my week. Before I sign off for the week I wanted to wish my dad and my 3 year old twin nephews, Mitch and Jake, very very happy birfdays on Tuesday. I shall be thinking of you guys and perhaps even enjoying some cake in your honour.

echo cafeteria

echo cafeteria

Posted by wherewa 11:29 Archived in Mauritius Comments (0)

Passionate about reason

...not the other way around

...this post was written a few weekends ago but never got finished, and probably won't anytime soon....

Eight minutes past midnight. I've just come back from Kenzie, my favourite bar in all of Mauritius. This watering hole is kinda like Jane Bond in uptown Waterloo back in Canadia. It's a cozy artsy fartsy place with zebra striped tables and tree stump stools planted on a fine gravel floor. There is funky live music to match the decorum. Over some head-spin inducing cigarettes and a tall glass of coke I got to chatting about the point of it all. Yes, another one of those vital conversations you can only have at a bar and then forget the fine details of by morning. The difference this time is that I wasn't drinking, meaning that the magic of the discussion is not completely lost on me just yet. Or maybe it is fading already...

Loosely the big question on my mind and lips was "Why am I here?"

At the end of last season, following a short but thrilling ride on the back of a bike, I found myself in the gorges on the bank of the Black River. As I sat and waited for some friends to join me for a hike, it dawned on me that nearly everything I was looking at around me was, like myself, not a native Mauritian. The plants and animals were the ex-pats of the natural world: trees from Australia, mynahs from India, fodies from Madagascar, guava from China. That struck me as absolutely astounding. The scale of the exotic invasion became crystal clear to me in that moment. I had been taught that such an ecological scenario is a "bad" one. The natives are under attack, and without intervention they will eventually lose. It was then and there that I decided I to learn more about how a small island functions ecologically in spite of invasions by waves of unwelcome beasts. I saw Mau as a living laboratory; one possible outcome of the ecological future on the continents. I chose to come back to get to know its predicament better.

So you see, my reason to come back and work here is purely selfish: I want to learn about ecosystems in their perpetual state of change. I didn't want to come back to "save" anything. I don't really think that conservationists really are saving wildlife. It's a romantic label that's bestowed upon us by others. Plus it's a nice marketing blurb. The reality is greatly more complex.

.....and then I ran out of steam....

Posted by wherewa 10:13 Archived in Mauritius Comments (0)

Growing on

A Thanks Giving pause

Another Sunday night wrapping up at the Black River weekend house. People are going through their well practiced pre slumber rituals: pulling laundry off the line, squeezing in another FB message, searching for their mozzie nets... Our lap top lab (dining room table) is abandoned. There is just me left. Actually it's more like I've just set up shop. I'm in no rush to go to bed. Plus, I don't really have a bed per se to go to. I have a saggy vinyl upholstered foam mattress waiting for me on the veranda. All the beds in the house are taken. There are some spares in the garage I could curl up in, but I prefer to crash outside the front door instead, pirate style. My bug net and sleeping bag will encase me with all the creature comforts I desire. I remember a time last season when I was over come with chocking anxiety at the prospect of not getting to the weekend house in time to shot-gun a bed for myself. Not having a place where I could lay my head to rest really freaked me out. Not having my own space stressed me out too. Tonight, I see I have come a long way.

With promises of a home-baked apple pie, Tara (this year's New Noah), alerted me of the imminent Thanksgiving holiday. I recall staying up late last October nuking 20 kg of millet for hours while reflecting on all the bliss and growth spurts that flavoured my life up to that point. Another year has gone by rather quickly and life still tastes sweet and spicy to me, like a good chai masala made form scratch. Yum.

I think it is important to take time to mark the little and the grand things that cumulatively cultivate growth. For Thanksgiving I wish you a few moments to think back over your year and smile at the things that stretched or nurtured you and filled your happy tank. Such thoughts will foster more of the same.

I am grateful for all the love that touches my life everyday, delivered by friends, family, green parrots, a red motorbike and a gang of sperm whales. And I am so glad I no longer need a traditional bed to feel at home and safe in.

Grow on!!

P9150074.jpg

Posted by wherewa 11:27 Archived in Mauritius Comments (2)

Budget accommodation in Mauritius

Read reviews from other Travellerspoint members.

A depression, then some down and finally eggs

What the heck is Echo Work all about?

I have the coolest job, please allow me to convince you.

The other day I was riding Reddy, my red hot motorized two wheeled stallion, down the sinuous national park road when I felt a big smile crowding my face in the helmet. A subliminal smile such as that, just like snorting when I'm laughing, is a genuine indication of pure unadulterated happiness. I had lots to smile about: there I was commuting to a day's worth of Echo nesting sites, looking out past sawtoothed mountain peaks to the sea, feeling like I wouldn't change a thing about my life. That is a quality moment.

So what exactly is Echo work all about? Well in order to appreciate the job one needs to hear the Echo parakeet's story. Here goes my version... Echos (Psittacula eques), the masters of forest camouflage, are feathered with a palate of green hues: lime, sweet pea, broccoli and a touch of aquamarine kale. At three years of age sexually mature males develop attractive red beaks and black rings around their necks with a hint of blue and pink on the nape. Emerald green females have plain black beaks and an almost undetectable pencil thin necklet. This get up makes for very classy looking birds. I find their chubby cheeks, fat tongues and nasal duck like squeaks and whimpers endearing. I suppose that the fact they use their big noses as a third foot is also winning.

Post_5_Ech..re_Wood.jpg
An Echo pair, Bagel and a shy Mafuta, patiently waiting for me to finish up an egg check up their nest box.

As far as we know Echos were common on Mauritius until the 1800s when they began to decline along with the forests. That tendency to rarity resulted in fewer than 20 wild birds by 1986. And a postage stamp sized native forest is all that's left now, relatively speaking. The shrinking native forests are continually reorganized by more vigorous floral exotics hailing from the continents where they have perfected the art of competition and survival. Similarly native animals are duking it out with an ark of introduced hairy milk-drinking beasts (a.k.a. mammals) with a taste for eggs (rats, pigs, monkeys, cats, mongoose, etc.) together with the beaked cavity-dwelling variety like Ring-necked parakeets and Mynahs. So with their home base shrinking and unwelcome guests moving in on all fronts you can understand why the ecologically less confrontational Echos got pushed out - well nearly pushed out.

Echo conservation efforts got serious in 1987 with the intention of increasing the Echo population. Over the years field techniques have been layered finessing the perpetual fight against predators and competitors and boosting Echo's reproductive success with nest rescues, chick fostering, and supplying nest boxes. For the past month just on the brink of the breeding season I have been preparing cavities and nest boxes for their feathered tenants making the trees unappealing to other critters. The Echo Team has been rat proofing the nest trees by wrapping the trunks in sheets of slippery black plastic to prevent rats from climbing up to the nest. Poison is also put out at the base of the tree to keep the rat numbers at bay.

Post_5_Mik.._tailor.jpg
Echo 1 a.k.a. Mike the tree tailor.

Years of trial and error have shaped the nest boxes into efficient Echo generators. Check it out! The wooden nest boxes are quite tall with an access hole at the top and the nest lined with wood shavings at the bottom. The Echos mamas get in and out through the top and Echo workers access the nest through a special hinged door near the base. The depth of the faux cavities ensures that sticky little monkey fingers can't reach any eggs and that White Tailed Tropic Birds (my fave Round Island birds who sat on my head last season) who compete with Echos for cavities, don't set up shop. The boxes are mounted on metal or faux wood brackets which are then screwed into the tree. This keeps termites off since they won't tread on anything other than wood! Who knew!? This season to discourage honeybees from building hives inside the boxes we have added another ingenuity layer to the box design. Someone told us that bees won't hang honeycombs from a smooth surface so we stapled a piece of plastic rat guard sheet to the ceiling to force them to keep looking elsewhere. The new feature seems to be anti-bee alright but we still have to evict hoards of scary wasps. I never imagined I'd be dangling out of trees donning a bee suit armed with a bee smoker. Surreal!

The nesting sites are scattered around the Black River Gorges National Park. Some are nest boxes and a few are in natural cavities. Many of the trees are enormous things resembling Ents from Lord of the Rings. They are ambassadors from a different time. No one is sure of how old they are since trees in the tropics don't have growth rings but those giants must be a couple years old at least. There aren't many of them left around poking thorough the guava thicket that blankets the gorges. The views from them are dramatic: waterfalls, rivers, cliffs, the ocean, and a kaleidoscope of green. One of my faves is at a nest site called Trivial Pursuit.

TP2.jpg

The tree climbing system is pretty ingenious too, if I may say so. Instead of dragging an extension ladder around the jungle to access nests the way I did when I worked on flying squirrels in Canada, we use ropes to access the Echo sites. A lead nylon string is catapulted over a sturdy branch or tree fork and a climbing rope is pulled up in its place. One end of the rope is tied on to an anchor point and the Echo worker shimmies up the other end with the help of two jumars. To come down to earth we abseil like some kind of a FBI special secret service unit. It may all sound a bit confusing but once you get the hang of it it's really quite simple. Much sexier than carrying a ladder down into the gorges!

Post_5_Mik..rothers.jpg
Mike abseiling down from Two Brothers cavity after checking for eggs.

The Echos were impressed with all our laborious preparations and have taken up residency in most of the boxes and natural cavities, 60-some out of a possible 100. The last two weeks I have been sneaking up to nests to check for eggage when the females dashed out for a quick feed provisioned by their attentive males. The idea is to cause as little disturbance to the birds as possible so we do a lot of watching and waiting for birds to leave the nest sites before we check things out up close. There were many indications that eggs were on the way. At first there were little bowl shaped depressions in the shavings where a bird got cozy. Then bits of down began appearing. This went on for a few weeks until finally on Friday I got eggage action to write home about. :) Eggs are odd things. I mean why would you make a baby, package it up in a shell, poop it out, and then spend weeks sitting on it!? Why not just cook the thing inside you and pop it out when its good and done? Seems a bit bizarre really, but I suppose that life has evolved lots of interesting strategies to replicate itself.

Post_5_Cav.._action.jpg
A nest in a cavity pre-eggage action.

Hopefully this season will be a productive one for the green dudes and the population will expand a smidgen more. Currently the population is estimated between 288 and 431 birds depending on which counting technique you go by. Either way it is an amazing improvement over 20 birds some 30 years ago. But there are always surprises and complications along the conservation path. Over the last decade a viral disease called Parrot Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD) has been hitting the population hard. The young appear to be most susceptible with juvenile fatality sitting at 50%. Research is being carried out to understand what's going on and what the management implications will be.

The Echo Team is responsible for doing everything possible to encourage the Echo population to continue growing. Our over all mission is "More Echos" with lots to be learned along the way. But to be honest, sometimes all this conservation work seems like nothing more than a band aid with the real problems being far removed from the forests and mountain peaks. The bigger problems are rooted in our value systems and habits. Understanding that I recognize that if no one is providing emergency care to animals like the Echo parakeet while someone else is addressing the broader issues, then surely the Echos will just bleep off the screen. It takes a lot more than climbing trees and feeding birds to save them with room for many to partake.

Post_5_Ech..nrietta.jpg
Echo Team: Aurelie, Tom (visiting Echo worker), Mike, Ewa and Heather our fearless coordinator.

Posted by wherewa 10:50 Archived in Mauritius Comments (1)

What some call a kidnapping we call a rescue

Echo team outsourced for an Olive job

The Echo Team is unfailingly dedicated to fostering the well being of echo parakeets but once in a while we indulge in some side gigs. Occasionally we get outsourced to help other teams with their bird work. Last week the Olive White Eye team requested our fancy tree climbing services to rescue some eggs. Olive White Eyes, OWEs or Olives as they are dubbed, resemble overstuffed green olives with wings and pointy beaks. They are pretty rare with numbers bobbing just around a hundred or two birds. Efforts to boost their quantities in the weedy jungles are quite remarkable. When a pair of Olives builds a nest in tangle of leaves and branches their unborn chicks are finger food for a line up of patrons. Rats, monkeys, mongooses, cats, and other birds too are the gluttonous suspects. All these ravenous gourmands were introduced to Mauritius in the last few hundred years and the airborne savory fruits are struggling keep themselves off the menu. The Olives haven't yet figured out how to outsmart all the evolutionarily unfamiliar predators. Thus their numbers are dwindling.

Olive.jpg

To give the Olive families a fighting chance field biologists step in to tip the scale in their favour. Actually it's more like a race to see who gets the Olive eggs first: the biologist or the biology?? Daily biologists or Olive Workers as they are known in the industry, comb the forests in search of nests and freshly laid eggs. It's a good thing that the Olives are noisy birds otherwise the camouflaged tennis ball-sized nests would never be spotted. Once eggagge (another industry term) is suspected a "nest rescue" is planned. The idea is that the nest is accessed, the eggs taken to be incubated, hatched and the birdies hand reared in captivity. Heavily trained human foster parents, some of whom are imported from zoos in the UK, are on call to feed the rescued chicks every hour around the clock. The babes are fed papaya, cricket guts, bee larvae and/or mushed up mice combined in nectar (the oddest Olive stuffing imaginable, I know). Then the fledged birds are released on an island free of rats and cats and similar Olive consumers.

P1000560.jpg

Sounds neat and simple, eh? Well it's not. Just accessing the nest can be a gargantuan task in itself. Olives like to build nest on the tips of branches suspended above dark gulleys and raging rivers. The nest trees themselves are often either incredibly tall and humanly unreachable or growing on near vertical mud slicked slopes. So who you gonna call to help access them nests?? The gravity defying Echo Team of course.

P9180191.jpg

On the way to Monday's nest rescue I was joking that we were really just going to kidnap the eggs leaving some poor bereaved parents in our wake. I thought it funny that we called our assignment a "rescue" when really it was a Monday morning abduction or egg harvest. That was until we got to the site and found 3 rats dead in the traps that were set to protect the nest over the weekend. Three rats and one of them was caught up the tree! Unbelievable. Then and there I understood that the jungle, crawling with tonnes of invasive species, is literally a war zone. Those Olive parents need us to give their kids a fighting chance. Crazy but that's conservation work for ya.

P1000566.jpg

It took the Echo Team hours to negotiate the spindly tree perched on the side of a mud slide. The branch supporting the little nest had to be cut off mid air and the eggs retrieved without moving, shaking nor dropping them. An impossible task believe me. But the Echo Team works magic and the nest was accessed safely. So you would understand why we were all gutted to find the nest cold and empty. The little blue M&M candy sized eggs must have been pillaged by a rat probably just the previous night. The Olive rescue had failed. We got there too late. And in case you are asking why didn't we just go a day sooner, well the eggs can't be rescued too early since they are too delicate to handle. They need to be between 5-8 days old before they can withstand the traumatic trip to the captive breeding facility. The rats may have won that race but the marathon ain't over.

So on Monday I had a perspective adjustment. I get the true sense of urgency that we are up against. I also realized that I am enjoying being back and working in Mauritius even more than I did last season, which I didn't think was possible. The difference this season is that I am a part of a quality marathon team instead of running mostly on my own.

P1000522.jpg

Posted by wherewa 11:37 Archived in Mauritius Comments (0)

(Entries 1 - 5 of 8) Page [1] 2 » Next